Category: surf

This weekend I learnt some things. The first is that when you cast yourself into the Ocean’s swell for a surf, there’s no choice but to live in that moment. Your life truly depends on it. You survive through instinct, respect, trust and a letting go of all unnecessary thought. There’s no time for indecision, …

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“I exist as I am, that is enough, If no other in the world be aware I sit content, And if each and all be aware I sit content. One world is aware and by far the largest to me, and that is myself, And whether I come to my own to-day or in ten …

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  “This world is but a canvas for our imagination” Henry James Thoreau¬† This weekend I was blessed. I was blessed to experience a simplicity and richness that I’d never really encountered before. A new world. A simple world. A world of abundance and infinite beauty. It was the world of surf van life. You …

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